raw

It’s just been one of those weeks.

J was in town. I was teaching a long novel. All of the stress and exhaustion from Chicago was draining from my pores. And so very little got made or got started. Instead, J and I marveled at how little time we have left in our commuting marriage (53 days or so, but who could be counting?) before he comes back to Philadelphia to help me move to Kentucky. I started thinking about reserving a U-haul and pirating boxes from the library.

There are many things to look forward to in Kentucky --- I say, racking my brain right now --- but perhaps the best is J’s cooking. This week reminded me of the culinary delights to come. They’re usually healthy, bright, and tangy, just the way I like them.

Occasionally I express grave skepticism before I bite, like this last week, when he served up raw zucchini. You can't possibly imagine how good this is, because who really wants to eat raw zucchini? But it's pretty close to perfect: crisp zucchini (from the salting) and a hearty dose of lemon (J says that he boosted the lemon by adding a 4th). He also added the white beans and hard boiled eggs, both of which turn the whole thing from a side dish into a meal.

And who can really complain that he used no less than twelve bowls in its making? I'll happily do the dishes for a dinner like this.

Michael Symon's Zucchini Crudo

2 zucchini (about ¾ pound), thinly sliced
2 yellow summer squash (about 1½ pounds), thinly sliced
1 tablespoon plus ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 shallot, finely sliced
Grated zest and juice of 3 lemons, or to taste
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄3 cup slivered or sliced almonds, toasted
1⁄3 cup chopped fresh dill

*J's additions:
White beans
Hard boiled eggs

Combine the zucchini and yellow squash in a colander in the sink and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the salt over it. Toss to coat, and set aside for 10 to 15 minutes, no longer. In a large bowl, combine the garlic and shallot, sprinkle with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, and whisk in the lemon zest and juice. Whisk in the olive oil in a steady stream, then the almonds and dill. Taste for seasoning and acidity (it should be nicely acidic). Add the zucchini and squash to the dressing, toss, and serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings